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SURF N SEA ONLINE 728  1.31.24 10pm

655am OBS, Sunday, May 19th

Calm and cloudy morning as the Kona low continues to influence our weather patterns. Very light SE winds strengthening throughout the day. High Surf Adv. for south facing shores of all islands. SCA for Big Island waters. Lots of brown water runoff.

Big Picture updated 5/12. Tiny traces of NNW. Solid, but bumpy and dirty, South. Rising East trade wind swell. Call 596-SURF: 7a, noon, 3pm; plus, the 5p (recap-forecast).

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North Shore:

Up & Holding 12 sec NNW + Dropping 9 sec NNW. Smooth conditions early w/ lite SE winds. Sunset 0-1.5'; Rocky Pt 0-1'; Pipe 0-1'. Chuns 0-1.5'; Laniakea 0-1.5'; Ali'i Beach Park 0-1'. Overcast skies w/ murky water at most breaks.
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West:

Up & Rising 18 sec South + Dropping 13 sec SSW + traces of NNW. Smooth conditions w/ lite offshore winds. Makaha is 2-3', primarily from the South swell and mostly breaking behind the reef. Clouds and runoff.
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Town:

Up & Rising 18 sec South + Dropping 13 sec SSW. Semi-smooth conditions early with hints of lite onshore winds on the way again. Waikiki reefs are 2-3' occ. 4'; Kaisers-Rockpiles to Ala Moana to Kewalos are 3-4'+. Overcast skies w/ murky water at most breaks.
Photo courtesy of Eric Tessmer

Diamond Head:

Up & Rising 18 sec South + Dropping 13 sec SSW. Surf's 3-4'+ and semi-smooth early but expected to become bumpy from onshore winds. Overcast skies w/ murky water at most breaks.
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Sandy's:

Up & Rising 18 sec South + Dropping 13 sec SSW + Rising E swell. Surf's semi-smooth early with lite onshores, becoming bumpy by mid-morning. Full Pt/Half Pt are 3-4'+. Shorebreak is 2-3 occ. 4'. Overcast skies.
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East Makapu'u:

Up & holding 7 sec E trade swell. Semi-smooth early with lite onshores, becoming bumpy by mid-morning. Surf's 1-2'+ breaking in the shorebreak throughout the bay. Overcast skies w/ murky water at most breaks.
Cholos Salsa Sunday May 26 2024

Winds

Sunday
Range:
5-15+mph ESE

Monday
Range:
5-15+mph ESE

Tuesday
Range:
10-20mph ESE

Wednesday
Range:
5-15+mph ESE

Thursday
Range:
10-20mph East Trade

North

Sunday
05/19

Primary

Up & holding 12s NNW
Haw: 1-1.5
Face: 1-2

Secondary

Dropping 9s NNW
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
Good offshores

Monday
05/20

Primary

Holding 11s NNW
Haw: 1-1.5
Face: 1-2

Secondary

Rising 10s NE
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
divin , paddlin, fishin, sailin

Tuesday
05/21

Primary

Dropping 9s NNW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

Up & holding 8s NE
Haw: 1-1.5
Face: 1-2
divin , paddlin, fishin, sailin

Wednesday
05/22

Primary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 1-1.5
Face: 1-2

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
divin , paddlin, fishin, sailin

Thursday
05/23

Primary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 1-1.5
Face: 1-2

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
divin , paddlin, fishin, sailin

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West

Sunday
05/19

Primary

Up & Rising 18s S
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

Up & holding 12s NNW
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Poor-fair side-shores
Monday
05/20

Primary

Dropping 16s S
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +

Secondary

Holding 11s NNW
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair side-offshores
Tuesday
05/21

Primary

Dropping 14s S
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

Dropping 9s NNW
Haw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
Fair side-offshores
Wednesday
05/22

Primary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0
Face: 0

Secondary

Dropping 13s S
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
divin , paddlin, fishin, sailin
Thursday
05/23

Primary

Up & holding 16s SW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2

Secondary

Holding 8s NE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
Fair
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South

Sunday
05/19

Primary

Up & Rising 18s S
Haw: 2-4
Face: 3-7

Secondary

Dropping 13s SSW
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5
Poor-fair side-shores
5' later
Monday
05/20

Primary

Dropping 16s S
Haw: 2-3 occ 4
Face: 3-5 occ 7

Secondary

Dropping 12s SSW
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Fair side-offshores

Tuesday
05/21

Primary

Dropping 14s S
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5

Secondary

Rising Afternoon 20s SW
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Fair side-offshores

Wednesday
05/22

Primary

Dropping 13s S
Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +

Secondary

Up & Rising 19s SW
Haw: 1-1.5
Face: 1-2
Fair side-offshores

Thursday
05/23

Primary

Up & holding 16s SW
Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3

Secondary

Dropping 12s S
Haw: 1-1.5
Face: 1-2
Fair

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east

Sunday
05/19

Primary

Up & holding 7s E
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

Rising 12s NE
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Choppy

Monday
05/20

Primary

Rising 7s E
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+

Secondary

Up & dropping 10s NE
Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Typical

Tuesday
05/21

Primary

Up & Rising 8s E
Haw: 2-3
Face: 3-5

Secondary

Dropping 8s NE
Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
bumpy

Wednesday
05/22

Primary

Up & Rising 8s E
Haw: 2-3+
Face: 3-5+

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
bumpy

Thursday
05/23

Primary

Up & holding 8s E
Haw: 2-4
Face: 3-7

Secondary

None  NONE
Haw: 0
Face: 0
slightly bumpy

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Current Swells:

Sunday 05/19
Primary: Up & Rising 18s S surf @2-4 
Secondary: Up & holding 7s E surf @1-2+ 
Third: Up & holding 12s NNW surf @1-1.5 
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Marine Warnings:

Sunday   05/19
High Surf Adv. for south facing shores of all islands. SCA for Big Island-Molokai waters.
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Sailing Report:

Sunday   05/19
Fair due to moderate ESE winds.
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Diving Report:

Sunday   05/19
Brown water for all shores! North shores: Poor to fair due to brown water runoff, but small surf and offshore winds; West shores: Poor due to solid South swell and brown water. South shores: Poor overall with high surf and moderate onshore winds. East shores: Poor due to average size surf and moderate side-onshore winds.

Oahu

Maui

Kauai

Big Island

Weather

Surf Advisory and Warning Criteria
Location/shoreline Advisory Warning
North-Facing Shores- 15 Feet faces (8' Local) 25 Feet faces (15' local)
West-Facing Shores - 12 Feet (7' local) 20 Feet (12' local)
West-Facing- Big Is.- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 12 Feet (7' local)
South-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
East-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)

Big Picture

INACTIVE.
Get the latest on the tropics at www.hurricanes.gov
The Central Pacific Hurricane Center outlook for the 2017 Central Pacific Hurricane Season calls for 5 to 8 tropical cyclones to either develop or cross into the Central Pacific with a 40% chance for an above-normal season, a 40% chance for a normal season, and a 20% chance for a below-normal season. An average season has 4 to 5 tropical cyclones, which include tropical depressions, tropical storms, and hurricanes.
A tropical depression forms when a low-pressure area is accompanied by thunderstorms that produce a circular wind flow with maximum sustained winds below 39 mph. An upgrade to a tropical storm occurs when cyclonic circulation becomes more organized and maximum sustained winds gust between 39 mph and 73 mph. A tropical storm is then upgraded into Category 1 hurricane status as maximum sustained winds increase to between 74 mph and 95 mph. (The highest classification in the scale, Category 5, is reserved for storms with winds exceeding 156 mph).
Tropical cyclones go by many names around the world, and the terminology can get confusing. Once a tropical cyclone strengthens to the point where it has gale-force winds—39 mph or greater—it becomes a tropical storm. A storm that reaches tropical storm strength usually gets its own name to help us quickly identify it in forecasts and warnings. Once a tropical storm begins producing sustained winds of around 75 mph, we call the storm a typhoon in the western Pacific near Asia and a hurricane in the oceans on either side of North America. A “typhoon” and a “hurricane” are the same kind of storm, they just go by different names…it’s only a matter of geography.
NWS criteria for High Surf Advisories & Warnings.
In coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i, the NWS uses the criteria below for the issuance of High Surf Advisories & Warnings in coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i.
All surf height observations & forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.
Advisory and Warning Criteria Location
Warning North-Facing Shores 15 Feet 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet 20 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet 12 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
'Travel Time' Buoy 51101 to Waimea Buoy. Distance: 269 nautical miles (~310 miles). Angle: 307 deg
Wave Wave Wave Depth Wave Direction (deg)----------
Period Length Speed Shallow 295, 305, 315, 325, 335, 345, 355
(s) (ft) (nm/h) (ft) Travel Time (hours)----------
10sec. 512. 15. 256. 17.3, 17.7, 17.6, 16.9, 15.7, 14.0, 11.9
12sec. 737. 18. 369. 14.5, 14.8, 14.6, 14.0, 13.0, 11.6, 9.9
14sec. 1003. 21. 502. 12.4, 12.7, 12.5, 12.0, 11.2, 10.0, 8.5
16sec. 1310. 24. 655. 10.8, ,1 1.1, 11.0, 10.5, 9.8, 8.7, 7.4
18sec. 1658. 27. 829. 9.6, 9.8, 9.8, 9.4, 8.7, 7.8, 6.6
20sec. 2047. 30. 1024. 8.7 8.9 8.8 8.4 7.8 7.0 5.9
22sec. 2477. 33. 1239. 7.9 8.1 8.0 7.7 7.1 6.3 5.4
24sec. 2948. 36. 1474. 7.2 7.4 7.3 7.0 6.5 5.8 4.9

Tropical Storms - wind 39-73 mph (34-63 kt)
Category 1 - winds 74-95 mph (64-82 kt)
Category 2 -winds 96-110 mph (83-95 kt)
Category 3 -winds 111-130 mph (96-113 kt)
Category 4 - winds 131-155 mph (114-135 kt)
Category 5 -winds 156 mph and up (135+ kt)
Please visit the Central Pacific Hurricane Center website at www.weather.gov/cphc for the most recent bulletins.
ENSO is a single climate phenomenon, it has three states or phases. The two opposite phases, “El Niño” and “La Niña,” require certain changes in both the ocean and the atmosphere because ENSO is a coupled climate phenomenon. “Neutral” is in the middle of the continuum. The MJO (Madden-Julian Oscillation) is an eastward moving disturbance of clouds, rainfall, winds, and pressure that traverses the planet in the tropics and returns to its initial starting point in 30 to 60 days, on average, unlike ENSO which is stationary. In a nutshell, more active means more surf.
Kelvin wave (A Kelvin wave is a wave in the ocean or atmosphere that balances the Earth's Coriolis force against a topographic boundary such as a coastline, or a waveguide such as the equator. A feature of a Kelvin wave is that it is non-dispersive, i.e., the phase speed of the wave crests is equal to the group speed of the wave energy for all frequencies. This means that it retains its shape as it moves in the alongshore direction over time.)

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