“That Wave I rode, I think I was about 8 years old, stands out in my head probably more than any wave in my life”

“Up until then I thought I wanted to be Steve Martin…”

“(back then) The Surf Tour’s  no different than a Rock Tour…sex, drugs and rock n roll…”

After beating Mark Richard’s 4 in a Row (’94-’98)…”I really didn’t have a goal for myself”

“I remember my first heat that year (2001, after his break from 1999-2000) my legs were shaking violently in the water while I was paddling…”

“I think it was the one time (before his Dad died) he ever really let me know how much he loved to watch me do what I do…”

To his Dad, after placing 2nd at Pipe against Bruce Irons, “I’m sorry I didn’t win for you…he said I was so proud of you, so proud to be here and see you do this…you did win”

“That was tremendous validation for everything I’ve done in my life…”