We’ve Never Seen a Swell Like This (World Record Broken?) – LENNY BROS. EP. 15
In this conversation, Ridge and Kai discuss an unprecedented run of big waves, focusing on the conditions, innovations in surfing techniques, and the critical importance of water safety.
They reflect on the evolution of surfboards and the need for respect and responsibility within the surfing community, especially during high-stakes situations like big wave surfing.
Ridge and Kai delve into the intricacies of big wave surfing, focusing on the dynamics of competition, the significance of the Eddie swell, and the evolution of women’s participation in the sport.
They discuss the pecking order among surfers, the chaos of event days, and the strategies involved in selecting boards and navigating heats.
The conversation also highlights the spiritual connection surfers have with the ocean and the thrill of riding massive waves, while acknowledging the challenges and risks involved in the sport.
They discuss the physical and mental demands of surfing massive waves, the importance of equipment design, and the reflections on performance and competition.
The conversation also touches on the future of big wave surfing, the community’s resilience, and the lessons learned from recent experiences.
00:00 The Epic Swell Run
02:20 Innovations in Big Wave Surfing
06:10 The Importance of Water Safety
15:35 Respect and Responsibility in Surfing
22:10 The Evolution of Surfing Techniques
36:28 The Pecking Order in Big Wave Surfing
39:48 The Eddie Swell: A Unique Event
42:11 The Chaos of the Eddie Day
46:22 Heat Strategies and Board Selection
51:38 The Pressure of Competition
01:00:32 The Evolution of Women’s Big Wave Surfing
01:02:38 The Spiritual Connection to Big Wave Surfing
01:08:25 The Thrill and Challenge of Big Wave Surfing
01:12:36 Reflections on Performance and Competition
01:16:47 The Aftermath of the Eddie and Future Aspirations
01:21:51 Mavericks: A New Frontier for Big Wave Surfing
01:27:43 Lessons Learned and Looking Ahead
