Matt Warshaw discusses why he stopped surfing regularly and how it has changed his life.

“The first day you surf is the best day because on the 2nd day you’re trying to do better…”

Matt Warshaw was born 1960 and is a former professional surfer, former writer and editor at Surfer magazine (1984-1990), Matt has authored dozens of feature articles and large-format books on surfing culture and history.

Warshaw currently curates the online Encyclopedia of Surfing and History of Surfing.

Notable for his archival scholarly rigor and “brazenly incisive prose,” Warshaw has long been noted by fellow surf journalists and writers as a foremost popular historical authority on the subject of surfing.